Graduated High School 1979.

I'm happy to see some folks who are in the same ballpark. 

Any of these code changes being tracked somehwere (ie. github repo), or is everyone just doing diffs to their code from snippets here?

Also, curious what changes were made for RacerMAME and if those have been incorporated over time already
http://www.racermame.altervista.org/index.html

This is working great now for Hard Drivin' compact and Race Drivin' compact but that damn Hard Drivin's Airborne is being a pain in the ass!

Hi geecab i got the code you posted working but the mouse thing was annoying me so i added a dip switch that lets you select a "Calibration Wheel" so that you can 100% accurately set it up using the Keyboard then you switch it back to the "Game Wheel 1" or "Game Wheel 2" setting and the game works fine. I added "Game Wheel 2" because it's a custom PORT_MINMAX that makes the steering less twitchy on a Logitech G932 wheel but still gives you the full range of motion in the car.

To get it 100% accurate all you do is set "Calibration Wheel" in the dip switch menu then in the input assignment menu you just map "Calibration Wheel Analogue Inc" to the Kbd Right (right key on keyboard) and hold it down untill it reaches 4 turns (it takes about 10 seconds), let go of the button and turn the Key and you get CNTSPTRN 1024, PATCEN 0.

Virtual DIP Switches for Wheel selection.




PORT_START("mainpcb:SW1")       /* 60c002 */
// Virtual DIP switches here
PORT_DIPNAME( 0x700, 0x100, "Toggle Calibration Wheel or Game Wheel 1-2" )
PORT_DIPSETTING(    0x100, "Game Wheel 1" )
PORT_DIPSETTING(    0x300, "Game Wheel 2" )
PORT_DIPSETTING(    0x400, "Calibration Wheel" )

//Hardware DIP switches continue here
PORT_DIPNAME( 0x01, 0x01, "SW1:8" )
PORT_DIPSETTING(    0x01, DEF_STR( Off ) )
PORT_DIPSETTING(    0x00, DEF_STR( On ) )
PORT_DIPNAME( 0x02, 0x02, "SW1:7" )

Message in the Input Assignment menu to remind users how to calibrate wheel.



PORT_START("mainpcb:a80000")
PORT_BIT( 0x0001, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_START2 ) PORT_NAME("Abort")
PORT_BIT( 0x0002, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_START1 ) PORT_NAME("Key")
PORT_BIT( 0x0004, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_COIN3 )    /* aux coin */
PORT_BIT( 0x00f8, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_UNUSED )
PORT_BIT( 0x0100, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_BUTTON2 )  PORT_NAME("1st Gear")
PORT_BIT( 0x0200, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_BUTTON3 )  PORT_NAME("2nd Gear")
PORT_BIT( 0x0400, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_BUTTON4 )  PORT_NAME("3rd Gear")
PORT_BIT( 0x0800, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_BUTTON5 )  PORT_NAME("4th Gear")
PORT_BIT( 0x4000, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_CUSTOM ) /* center edge on steering wheel */
PORT_BIT( 0x8000, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_UNUSED )
PORT_BIT( 0x3000, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_UNUSED ) PORT_NAME("1: Use DIP Switch & choose calibration wheel to calibrate wheel in test menu!")
PORT_BIT(0x10000, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_UNUSED ) PORT_NAME("2: Map Calibration Wheel Analogue Inc to Kbd Right!")
PORT_BIT(0x20000, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_UNUSED ) PORT_NAME("3: Hold down Kbd Right until you reach 4 turns!")
PORT_BIT(0x40000, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_UNUSED ) PORT_NAME("4: Let go of Kbd Right and turn key!")
PORT_BIT(0x80000, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_UNUSED ) PORT_NAME("5: Switch back to Game Wheel 1 or 2 after Test Menu calibration complete!")

The different Wheel setups selectable in DIP Switch menu.

PORT_START("mainpcb:12BADC.0")       /* b80000 - 12 bit ADC 0 - steering wheel */
/* Game Steering Wheel 1 */
PORT_BIT(0xfff, 0x800, IPT_PADDLE) PORT_CONDITION("mainpcb:SW1", 0x700, EQUALS, 0x100) PORT_MINMAX(0x010, 0xff0) PORT_SENSITIVITY(1) PORT_KEYDELTA(0) PORT_NAME("Game Wheel 1")

/* Game Steering Wheel 2 */
PORT_BIT(0xffff, 0x0800, IPT_PADDLE) PORT_CONDITION("mainpcb:SW1", 0x700, EQUALS, 0x300) PORT_MINMAX(0x0440, 0x0bc0) PORT_SENSITIVITY(1) PORT_KEYDELTA(0) PORT_NAME("Game Wheel 2")

/* Calibration Wheel */
PORT_BIT(0xffff, 0x0000, IPT_PADDLE) PORT_CONDITION("mainpcb:SW1", 0x700, EQUALS, 0x400) PORT_MINMAX(0x0000, 0x2800) PORT_SENSITIVITY(1) PORT_KEYDELTA(0) PORT_NAME("Calibration Wheel")


Game wheel 1 is the original mame PORT_MINMAX of 0x010, 0xff0 and Game Wheel 2 is the one i tweaked for my Logitech G932 with a PORT_MINMAX of  0x0440, 0x0bc0. Calibration Wheel has a PORT_MINMAX of 0x0000, 0x2800 and thats why it calibrates the machine perfectly but it's way too high to actually use it as a wheel because of how sensitive it is. It's only useful for calibrating the game.

Looks really nice. I wish I had access to a 3D printer but if I bought one I know I'd only use it a couple of times a year, if that.  It looks like it provides options for things that would be too difficult to make by hand. Opens up a lot of possibilities.

Thanks, for a long time I did without a 3D printer in this hobby. I guess I have made a few things by hand which I could have 3D printed more easily. I regard them as a tool, not as a hobby in and of themselves with one caveat, you need to have 3D design skills to truly use them as as a tool. I’ve got a long list of projects (in other craft hobby areas) that include 3D printed elements. I may move into resin printing eventually, maybe.

So before looking at the latest build progress, I just wanted to check my design reference for work so far completed. My reference is always the original back-glass artwork from the PC game:


So far, I’ve reproduced the drawn speaker grill area in 3D and I'm using a cut-out window to reveal the DMD on screen. In theory I should be able to play other tables and adapt the back-glass art work to the physical layout. They all have similar speaker/DMD/back glass artwork configurations. I may need to tweak some back-glass files for games that don’t quite fit:


I painted the rest of the back box today, final primer coat and one coat only (in multiple passes) of black:



Second coat of primer on the main cabinet, one to go:


I’m using these 3D printed inserts in all the button holes on the cabinet:


The reason for these is my choice of buttons.  They are these cheap illuminated buttons sold in the shop I work in.  I have boxes full of unused quality Japanese (Seimitsu and Sanwa) as well as Happ buttons I could use, but I really wanted to use these illuminated buttons in this case. They have this raised edge which is meant to fit into a plastic ring which sits between the cabinet panel and the button. I hated the ring thingies, so threw I them away  :


The buttons fit into the inserts perfectly:


Next post will be of the completed back-box with monitor installed and lit!

vk

Bae wake up, new GUN4ALL update just dropped.

Mostly fixes, but notable inclusions are:

• External NeoPixels actually work now, and I've verified this for sure lol.
• Temperature sensor support is properly fixed and merged, meaning just one build for each board that covers all possible configurations! No more confusing -tmp36 builds.
• D-pads are now mapped to the gamepad slot's d-pad, rather than the keyboard.
• Other various fixes and improvements.

And on the other end, the new GUI update now supports rebooting connected guns to the bootloader mode, to make updating to this version that much easier! Granted, this one required kind of a dirty hack that utilizes the OS's own apps to perform this function (because Qt just wasn't cooperating), but turns out that the mode and stty cli apps are pretty much standard across Windows and Linux, respectively! So it shouldn't be an issue. The Linux build will also now detect if the running user is in the dialout group at startup, and give a command for the user to copy/paste into a terminal to do it (again, using the aforementioned hack, but also again, groups and usermod are standard on Unix).

At some point, I'd definitely love to get over-the-air updates going with the GUI, to make it literally one-click. And unless any other bugs crop up, the only thing left on my bucket list is re-exposing full button function mapping functionality. Fun!

You kids today

High school class of ‘81 baby!  Now get off my lawn
TTC


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memory slots

IT HAS A WIFI CARD!!!!
that's not common