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Author Topic: Global VR immersion Board Win 7 - wonky Pedals  (Read 4483 times)

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ignignot

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Global VR immersion Board Win 7 - wonky Pedals
« on: February 21, 2019, 06:42:48 pm »
so I just picked up a set of Need for Speed GT cabs with the global VR immersion board.  I was able to successfully install the drivers for win 7 but there is an issue with the gas/brake axis - when i load up mame it goes crazy because it thinks the down arrow is being pressed on "joy1".  since the pedals dotn even seems to run through the usb board (they are wired into a big old serial connector that is not plugged in cause there's no PC). 

am i up the creek here because my pedals dont route through the control board?


anyone else have this same issue and fix it?

thanks BYOAC!

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Re: Global VR immersion Board Win 7 - wonky Pedals
« Reply #1 on: February 22, 2019, 01:33:35 pm »
I have a guess.....

try holding the gas pedal at 50%.  That MIGHT neutralize it enough for you to control the mame cursor/selection.  Then in settings, delete the digital assignments for the analog controls.

68hc11

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Re: Global VR immersion Board Win 7 - wonky Pedals
« Reply #2 on: March 05, 2019, 08:51:33 pm »
So I got 2 adapters DB25 (Connector DB24 D-Sub Male Plug 25-pin Port Terminal Breakout PCB Board & DB37 (sysly DB37 D-sub male female 37pin Terminal breakout PCB Board Screw Adapter (Male)) to plug into the two wiring harness plug connectors, from these I point to point wired to an Ultimarc A-PAC2 USB adapter (2 analog channels) and then used Universal Control Remapper (UCR) to gather all the inputs.

I replaced the CRT with a 32" 1080p LCD.

I'm running
Sega Model 2
SuperModel (R742)
DeMul (Crazy Taxi/Faster Than Speed/F355/Maximum Speed/Sega Nascar)
TeknoParrot (v182) (Battle Gear 4, Chase HQ2, Daytona 3, Ford Racing, Maximum Tune 5, Sega Racing Classic, Sega Rally 3)
All RH (Road Fighters 3D)

I've tinkered with Mame but honestly I don't feel like I'm missing much (California Speed, Rush the Rock)

ignignot

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Re: Global VR immersion Board Win 7 - wonky Pedals
« Reply #3 on: March 08, 2019, 10:42:17 am »
So I got 2 adapters DB25 (Connector DB24 D-Sub Male Plug 25-pin Port Terminal Breakout PCB Board & DB37 (sysly DB37 D-sub male female 37pin Terminal breakout PCB Board Screw Adapter (Male)) to plug into the two wiring harness plug connectors, from these I point to point wired to an Ultimarc A-PAC2 USB adapter (2 analog channels) and then used Universal Control Remapper (UCR) to gather all the inputs.

I replaced the CRT with a 32" 1080p LCD.

I'm running
Sega Model 2
SuperModel (R742)
DeMul (Crazy Taxi/Faster Than Speed/F355/Maximum Speed/Sega Nascar)
TeknoParrot (v182) (Battle Gear 4, Chase HQ2, Daytona 3, Ford Racing, Maximum Tune 5, Sega Racing Classic, Sega Rally 3)
All RH (Road Fighters 3D)

I've tinkered with Mame but honestly I don't feel like I'm missing much (California Speed, Rush the Rock)



Thanks I did something very similar.  I only ended up using the adapter for the 27 PIN (I needed to breakout from the original harness because the APAC wanted the POT grounds bridged but 5V separate, the OG harness had the 5v and ground bridged for the POTs) and wiring to the other controls directly but same idea running it all to the APAC and leaving the conversion 100% reversible (no cuts/no splices). Did you route the steering wheel through the A-PAC?  If so, did you lose your force feedback at the same time?  I wish I could get rid of the immersion board because it doesn't have a hookup for the throttle/brake so instead of those inputs sitting at zero, they like to bounce wildly through the full range at something like 20 Hz.  It makes configuring controls in some games a NIGHTMARE  because "immersion USB Wheel Throttle" wants to become EVERYTHING.



I have a problem with the gas pedals  and the A-Pac though (all buttons/gas pedals route through APAC, the only thing not on the APAC is the wheel/FFB which I use the immersion drivers for) - there is a CONSTANT jitter between off/on for the 2x pots for throttle/brake.  its like the last  1/40th of a mm matters, and depending on if the pedal rebounded hard enough or not to push it there is the difference between ON and OFF.   Is there some "global dead zone" setting for the APAC I could use to squash this.  I see MAME and xpadder have deadzone settings, because I HAVE to use them for now.  but I would prefer the APAC driver to be regulating this, because I WANT POT driven pedals, and in games where analog pedals are available and there is no deadzone setting (most, im finding) It means even when I drop the gas pedal I am watching my revs go up slowly.



so anyone know about a global deadzone setting for APAC?

and you need to download the need for speed games from 2004-2009 they are a RIOT.   most wanted from 2005 is my favorite so far.
« Last Edit: March 08, 2019, 10:45:09 am by ignignot »

68hc11

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Re: Global VR immersion Board Win 7 - wonky Pedals
« Reply #4 on: March 08, 2019, 11:08:07 am »
I still have the Immersion board running the Steering Wheel input/FFB.

By using UCR / VJoy I end up with a single combined entry USB device and inputs.  It also provides you the ability to do fine scaling on the analog inputs.

Some software plays well with this & some does not.  I'm guessing that MAME doesn't?

I think someone else here has reported with the "newer" immersion board they were able to run all the analog inputs & digital inputs (requires a switch matrix/diodes to do) successfully.  With my older version it seemed as the Gas/Brake would not update accurately in games.

Some of the Need for Speeds do & some don't as well.  Are you running the PC versions or the Hacked Arcade versions?

ignignot

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Re: Global VR immersion Board Win 7 - wonky Pedals
« Reply #5 on: March 08, 2019, 12:35:24 pm »
I still have the Immersion board running the Steering Wheel input/FFB.

By using UCR / VJoy I end up with a single combined entry USB device and inputs.  It also provides you the ability to do fine scaling on the analog inputs.

Some software plays well with this & some does not.  I'm guessing that MAME doesn't?

I think someone else here has reported with the "newer" immersion board they were able to run all the analog inputs & digital inputs (requires a switch matrix/diodes to do) successfully.  With my older version it seemed as the Gas/Brake would not update accurately in games.

Some of the Need for Speeds do & some don't as well.  Are you running the PC versions or the Hacked Arcade versions?



PC, are the arcade ones better at all?  I like the PC ones because you can actually do stuff in the game vs just race. (customize/upgrade car, free roam mode, etc)

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Re: Global VR immersion Board Win 7 - wonky Pedals
« Reply #6 on: March 26, 2021, 08:50:59 pm »
So I got 2 adapters DB25 (Connector DB24 D-Sub Male Plug 25-pin Port Terminal Breakout PCB Board & DB37 (sysly DB37 D-sub male female 37pin Terminal breakout PCB Board Screw Adapter (Male)) to plug into the two wiring harness plug connectors, from these I point to point wired to an Ultimarc A-PAC2 USB adapter (2 analog channels) and then used Universal Control Remapper (UCR) to gather all the inputs.

I replaced the CRT with a 32" 1080p LCD.

I'm running
Sega Model 2
SuperModel (R742)
DeMul (Crazy Taxi/Faster Than Speed/F355/Maximum Speed/Sega Nascar)
TeknoParrot (v182) (Battle Gear 4, Chase HQ2, Daytona 3, Ford Racing, Maximum Tune 5, Sega Racing Classic, Sega Rally 3)
All RH (Road Fighters 3D)

I've tinkered with Mame but honestly I don't feel like I'm missing much (California Speed, Rush the Rock)



Thanks I did something very similar.  I only ended up using the adapter for the 27 PIN (I needed to breakout from the original harness because the APAC wanted the POT grounds bridged but 5V separate, the OG harness had the 5v and ground bridged for the POTs) and wiring to the other controls directly but same idea running it all to the APAC and leaving the conversion 100% reversible (no cuts/no splices). Did you route the steering wheel through the A-PAC?  If so, did you lose your force feedback at the same time?  I wish I could get rid of the immersion board because it doesn't have a hookup for the throttle/brake so instead of those inputs sitting at zero, they like to bounce wildly through the full range at something like 20 Hz.  It makes configuring controls in some games a NIGHTMARE  because "immersion USB Wheel Throttle" wants to become EVERYTHING.



I have a problem with the gas pedals  and the A-Pac though (all buttons/gas pedals route through APAC, the only thing not on the APAC is the wheel/FFB which I use the immersion drivers for) - there is a CONSTANT jitter between off/on for the 2x pots for throttle/brake.  its like the last  1/40th of a mm matters, and depending on if the pedal rebounded hard enough or not to push it there is the difference between ON and OFF.   Is there some "global dead zone" setting for the APAC I could use to squash this.  I see MAME and xpadder have deadzone settings, because I HAVE to use them for now.  but I would prefer the APAC driver to be regulating this, because I WANT POT driven pedals, and in games where analog pedals are available and there is no deadzone setting (most, im finding) It means even when I drop the gas pedal I am watching my revs go up slowly.



so anyone know about a global deadzone setting for APAC?

and you need to download the need for speed games from 2004-2009 they are a RIOT.   most wanted from 2005 is my favorite so far.

Hi there!

Can you elaborate more on how you wired up the DB25 connector to the APAC? I also have a NFS GT cabinet and I’ve been struggling to get the DB25 connected to the APAC.

I connected the DB25 connector to a male DB25 breakout board, and wired the GND from the breakout board to the APAC. I then wired some of the breakout board to the APAC (with reference to page 91 of this manual https://service.globalvr.com/downloads/nfs/040-0064-01b-nfsu_upgrade_manual-web.pdf as a starting guide for what pin goes to what). I connected pin 1 (gas) to the LEFT1 analog input and pin 14 (brake) to RIGHT1.I also wired a bunch of the buttons to the various switch ports on the APAC. Once I connect it to the PC, I get no readings on the windows game controller tester for the axis’s or buttons. I tried just reading directly from the breakout board with a multimeter but I just read a constant 5.25ish volts on a bunch of the pins and they don’t chance when i depress the pedals or push the buttons. I know the buttons and pedals work because I can test it with the original nytric card. I feel like I’m doing something simple wrong here.

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Re: Global VR immersion Board Win 7 - wonky Pedals
« Reply #7 on: March 26, 2021, 10:38:41 pm »
I then wired some of the breakout board to the APAC (with reference to page 91 of this manual https://service.globalvr.com/downloads/nfs/040-0064-01b-nfsu_upgrade_manual-web.pdf as a starting guide for what pin goes to what). I connected pin 1 (gas) to the LEFT1 analog input and pin 14 (brake) to RIGHT1.
The labels on the APac board describe the default digital mode functions for a microswitch joystick, not the analog mode functions you need for potentiometers.

These are the needed connections:
- "1DOWN" and "1LEFT" on the APac connect to Pin 4 "Analog PWR" of the DB25 in that schematic. (5v for pots)
- "1UP" on the APac connects to Pin 1 "GAS (AIN 0)". (Gas on Player 1 Y-axis)
- "1RIGHT" on the APac connects to Pin 14 "Brake (AIN 1)". (Brake on Player 1 X-axis)
- "GND" on the APac connects to Pin 3 "Analog GND". (Ground for pots)



Once I connect it to the PC, I get no readings on the windows game controller tester for the axis’s or buttons.
When the APac boots up, it checks for pots.
- If it sees a pot that is properly connected, the APac sets the associated ports to analog mode. (5v on red wire and analog input on yellow wire)
- If it doesn't see a pot that is properly connected, the APac sets the associated inputs to the default digital mode.


Scott

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Re: Global VR immersion Board Win 7 - wonky Pedals
« Reply #8 on: March 27, 2021, 11:38:18 am »
Thank you so much Scott! The pedals work wonderfully now!

I’m still having trouble getting any reading from the switches. Don’t the analog and digital grounds need to be separate? The ground pins on the APAC are shorted so I wasn’t sure how I could achieve a separate circuit for the digital portion of my circuit (the switches)


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Re: Global VR immersion Board Win 7 - wonky Pedals
« Reply #9 on: March 27, 2021, 04:01:34 pm »
I’m still having trouble getting any reading from the switches. Don’t the analog and digital grounds need to be separate? The ground pins on the APAC are shorted so I wasn’t sure how I could achieve a separate circuit for the digital portion of my circuit (the switches)
You don't need separate grounds for digital and analog on the APac. (see bottom half of pic posted above)

The problem might be caused by a button always being pushed/shorted.
- If the shifter is connected to the APac, make sure it is in Neutral (no switches closed) before booting up the APac.

First thing I'd check is the button wiring:
- Remove power from the APac. (unless you want to fry your multimeter  >:D )
- Check for continuity between ground and each button input.
-- No continuity when button isn't pressed = good.
-- Continuity = button pressed or a microswitch is wired wrong -- wires should be on the Normally Open (NO) and Common (COM) tabs or there's a short in the wiring.

If you don't find any problems in the wiring but the buttons aren't working properly:
- Disconnect all of the button inputs from the APac.
- Verify that the analog inputs work as expected using Windows Control Panel game controller properties and no buttons register as pushed. (check both P1 and P2 sides)
- Unplug the APac USB, reconnect a few button inputs, and reconnect the APac USB.
- If the reconnected inputs work OK, reconnect a few more inputs until you find the problem input(s) or scare the gremlins away.   :lol




Scott